{"id":614,"date":"2019-02-12T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2019-02-11T23:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/leherpeurparis.com\/2019\/02\/12\/rencontre-avec-la-creatrice-vanessa-schindler-i-slow-fashion-motion\/"},"modified":"2021-11-22T11:35:44","modified_gmt":"2021-11-22T10:35:44","slug":"rencontre-avec-la-creatrice-vanessa-schindler-i-slow-fashion-motion","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/leherpeurparis.com\/en\/boostyourcreativity\/rencontre-avec-la-creatrice-vanessa-schindler-i-slow-fashion-motion\/","title":{"rendered":"Rencontre avec la cr\u00e9atrice Vanessa Schindler \/ Slow fashion motion"},"content":{"rendered":"

Rencontre avec la cr\u00e9atrice Vanessa Schindler, laur\u00e9ate du grand prix du festival de Hy\u00e8res, en 2017, et alchimiste de la mode.
\nEn qu\u00eate de r\u00e9ponses \u00e0 tous ces questionnements sur l’engagement, LeherpeurParis a souhait\u00e9 rencontrer la cr\u00e9atrice, dipl\u00f4m\u00e9e de la HEAD (Haute \u00e9cole d’art et de design de Gen\u00e8ve) et nourrie aux exp\u00e9riences chez \u00c9tudes Studio, Balenciaga ou Henrik Vibskov, Vanessa Schindler r\u00e9invente la couture classique en proposant une conception radicale d’assemblage, gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 l’utilisation de l’ur\u00e9thane. Polym\u00e8re, figeant et fixant la mati\u00e8re, l’ur\u00e9thane permet \u00e0 la cr\u00e9atrice de sculpter un nouveau rapport au corps et au temps.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/h4>\n

\/\/ \/POUVEZ-VOUS NOUS PARLEZ UN PEU DE VOTRE TRAVAIL ? DE VOTRE SAVOIR-FAIRE ?<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Apr\u00e8s avoir abord\u00e9 au cours de mes exp\u00e9riences, la production tr\u00e8s artisanale et la dimension tr\u00e8s commerciale du pr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter, j’ai eu envie de questionner plus profond\u00e9ment les mani\u00e8res de faire. \u00c0 une \u00e9poque o\u00f9 tout s’externalise, j’ai ressenti le besoin de faire quelque chose de mes mains, mais surtout de repenser la fa\u00e7on dont on montait le v\u00eatement et de le faire de A \u00e0 Z, de l’id\u00e9e \u00e0 la mat\u00e9rialisation finale. Cela fait plus de 100 ans que l’on assemble un v\u00eatement de la m\u00eame mani\u00e8re, je me suis donc demand\u00e9 s’il n’\u00e9tait pas possible de chambouler ces sch\u00e9mas ancr\u00e9s pour r\u00e9inventer le montage d’une pi\u00e8ce et renouveler les finitions. Ma volont\u00e9 f\u00fbt de monter des v\u00eatements sans couture. \u00c0 la mani\u00e8re d’un sculpteur, de venir sculpter le v\u00eatement comme s’il avait \u00e9t\u00e9 directement moul\u00e9 sur le corps. Au cours de mes recherches, j’ai d\u00e9couvert l’ur\u00e9thane, un polym\u00e8re qui s\u00e8che rapidement et qui par une absorption rapide du tissu permet de figer les fibres. Au cours de ces exp\u00e9rimentations, o\u00f9 ma casquette oscillait entre styliste et plasticienne, l’ur\u00e9thane est devenu un moyen de souder les pi\u00e8ces, rempla\u00e7ant le fil cousu par une technique de coup\u00e9-coll\u00e9.<\/p>\n

<\/h4>\n

\"\"<\/h4>\n

<\/h4>\n

\/\/ \/EN TANT QUE DESIGNER DE LA NOUVELLE G\u00c9N\u00c9RATION, PLUS RESPONSABLE, PLUS ENGAG\u00c9E, QUEL EST VOTRE R\u00d4LE ?<\/strong><\/h4>\n

L’ur\u00e9thane est un polym\u00e8re soit une mati\u00e8re plastique qui s’oppose par sa composition aux d\u00e9marches \u00ab \u00e9co-friendly \u00bb mais qui fait partie int\u00e9grante de mon process et que je ne peux remplacer pour l’instant. N\u00e9anmoins, cette question de la responsabilit\u00e9, je l’envisage en permanence dans mon travail et si elle ne passe pas par la mati\u00e8re que j’utilise, elle s’exprime dans ma d\u00e9marche ralentie de production ainsi que dans ma volont\u00e9 de g\u00e9rer la production de A \u00e0 Z. Certes c’est un \u00e9norme challenge mais c’est une fa\u00e7on de r\u00e9attribuer de la valeur et du temps aux choses. Je pense sinc\u00e8rement qu’il est envisageable de faire le travail d’une autre mani\u00e8re, de chambouler des principes de bases de production. Dans un premier temps, en all\u00e9geant la production, en r\u00e9duisant les d\u00e9multiplications et les manipulations dans la fabrication d’un v\u00eatement tout en valorisant le savoir-faire manuel et dans un second temps de se familiariser \u00e0 nouveau avec la lenteur. Une lenteur, \u00e0 r\u00e9introduire dans le process de production, pour rallonger la dur\u00e9e de vie et optimiser le capital affectif d’un produit. En repensant la cha\u00eene de production et en la maitrisant de A \u00e0 Z, on revalorise l’objet, le rapport \u00e0 celui-ci et \u00e0 soi-m\u00eame, ce que le travail \u00e0 la chaine ne permet pas.<\/p>\n

<\/h4>\n

\"\"<\/a> \"\"<\/a><\/strong><\/h4>\n

<\/h4>\n

\/\/ \/ COMMENT VOTRE PROCESSUS CR\u00c9ATIF, PEUT-IL FAIRE \u00c9VOLUER LES CHOSES ?<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Pour ma part, je travaille plus \u00e0 l\u2019objet qu\u2019\u00e0 une id\u00e9e globale de collection. Cela est plus compliqu\u00e9 de communiquer par rapport \u00e0 \u00e7a mais c\u2019est un moyen d\u2019\u00e9chapper \u00e0 la pression des saisons, de prendre mon temps et de g\u00e9rer l\u2019ensemble du processus cr\u00e9atif. Je travaille davantage comme une designeuse d\u2019objets que comme une vraie marque de pr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter. Le r\u00f4le de jeune cr\u00e9ateur, comme moi, c\u2019est d\u2019essayer de contrebalancer avec cette vitesse effr\u00e9n\u00e9e du syst\u00e8me de la mode et cette guerre des prix les plus bas pour repenser la relation avec un produit de mode. De capitaliser sur des produits qui auront pris plus de temps \u00e0 \u00eatre con\u00e7us, qui couteront certainement, plus cher, mais pour lesquels on aura plus d\u2019attaches, de respect et que l\u2019on cherchera \u00e0 entretenir et \u00e0 transmettre. Un objet de mode, au sens o\u00f9 je l\u2019entends, \u00e7a se transmet et \u00e7a s\u2019inscrit dans la dur\u00e9e.<\/p>\n

Cr\u00e9dits photos : Philippine Chaumont & Chaumont Zaerpour sur http:\/\/vanessa-schindler.com<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Rencontre avec la cr\u00e9atrice Vanessa Schindler, laur\u00e9ate du grand prix du festival de Hy\u00e8res, en 2017, et alchimiste de la mode. En qu\u00eate de r\u00e9ponses \u00e0 tous ces questionnements sur […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":616,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[163,169,143,148,139,160],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-614","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-boostyourcreativity","category-conversation","category-fashion","category-knowyourpeople","category-creation-concept-lieu","category-savoirfaire"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nRencontre avec la cr\u00e9atrice Vanessa Schindler \/ Slow fashion motion | LeherpeurParis<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/leherpeurparis.com\/en\/boostyourcreativity\/rencontre-avec-la-creatrice-vanessa-schindler-i-slow-fashion-motion\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Rencontre avec la cr\u00e9atrice Vanessa Schindler \/ Slow fashion motion | LeherpeurParis\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Rencontre avec la cr\u00e9atrice Vanessa Schindler, laur\u00e9ate du grand prix du festival de Hy\u00e8res, en 2017, et alchimiste de la mode. 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