{"id":5799,"date":"2025-10-01T14:47:49","date_gmt":"2025-10-01T12:47:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/leherpeurparis.com\/?p=5799"},"modified":"2025-11-04T14:40:14","modified_gmt":"2025-11-04T13:40:14","slug":"en-revue-t-le-magazine-du-tem","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/leherpeurparis.com\/en\/revuedepresse\/en-revue-t-le-magazine-du-tem\/","title":{"rendered":"En revue (T, le magazine du Temps) : “Skinny is back ?”"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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\u00a9<\/strong> @acnestudio<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Le jean \u00abskinny\u00bb, <\/em>tr\u00e8s serr\u00e9, est de retour! Oui, celui de Kate Moss, Hedi Slimane et Amy Winehouse, qui colle \u00e0 la cuisse et entrave les chevilles. Vraiment? Pourquoi? O\u00f9? Comment? A quoi bon? Question d\u2019\u00e9poques<\/strong><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Commen\u00e7ons par une \u00e9nigme comme on en posait, dans les trag\u00e9dies grecques, aux h\u00e9ros qu\u2019on mettait \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9preuve. Voici la devinette: ceux qui parlent le plus de moi ne me portent pas, et ceux qui me portent ne parlent pas de moi; qui suis-je? <\/p>\n\n\n\n

R\u00e9ponse: Le jean skinny<\/em>. Le jean maigre, quoi. Soit le pantalon en denim qui moule la jambe, \u00e9pouse les fesses, expose le pubis, embrasse les cuisses, \u00e9trangle les chevilles, rend la poutre apparente, cisaille la taille, menotte les enjamb\u00e9es et laisse sur la peau la marque de sa ceinture. Sur les r\u00e9seaux sociaux (surtout TikTok), dans les magazines ou sur les podiums des d\u00e9fil\u00e9s de mode les plus en vue, il fait son grand retour d\u2019entre les habits morts, sortant de son enfer. En m\u00eame temps, on en voit tr\u00e8s peu dans les vitrines. Sauf qu\u2019il n\u2019a jamais compl\u00e8tement disparu des rues, port\u00e9 par les jeunes commerciaux en mal de rock attitude, par les bourgeoises en stilettos et blazers ainsi que par les rockers inusables. Sans compter qu\u2019il fait l\u2019objet de d\u00e9bats pas- sionn\u00e9s entre initi\u00e9s. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

C\u2019est bien simple, le jean skinny<\/em>, ce n\u2019est plus un pantalon, c\u2019est le y\u00e9ti \u00e0 Lourdes, le point G au masculin, un mirage aux alouettes. Pour tout dire: le miroir fendill\u00e9 d\u2019une \u00e9poque terriblement floue. La n\u00f4tre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Acte de naissance<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Le jean skinny <\/em>(de \u00abskin<\/em>\u00bb, la peau) na\u00eet dans les ann\u00e9es\u000e1980, quand les usines r\u00e9ussissent \u00e0 ajouter de l\u2019\u00e9lasthanne \u00e0 la toile denim. Gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 quoi, cette derni\u00e8re devient extensible et r\u00e9ussit \u00e0 mouler le corps presque comme un collant. Avant, le jean pouvait se porter tr\u00e8s serr\u00e9, slim<\/em>, mais pas au point de coller au corps \u2013 on se souvient de ces r\u00e9cits d\u2019a\u00efeux, dans les ann\u00e9es 1970, qui enfilaient leur jean puis plongeaient tout habill\u00e9s dans leur baignoire pour que leur pantalon moul\u00e2t leurs jambes… Dans les eighties<\/em>, le jean skinny <\/em>accompagne la d\u00e9mocratisation des corps entra\u00een\u00e9s, muscl\u00e9s et cultiv\u00e9s qu\u2019il r\u00e9v\u00e8le. Le pantalon deuxi\u00e8me peau est plut\u00f4t du c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la sant\u00e9, il marche vite et droit sur l\u2019avenue de la confiance. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mais l\u2019\u00e2ge d\u2019or du skinny<\/em>, c\u2019est celui de son aura noire: les ann\u00e9es 2005 \u00e0 2015. Les ann\u00e9es Kate Moss et Pete Doherty, cheveux sales, jambes Q-tips, d\u00e9marche titubante, jean maigre et jumeau. Les ann\u00e9es d\u2019Amy Winehouse aussi, puret\u00e9 d\u00e9chirante et d\u00e9chir\u00e9e, guiboles de h\u00e9ron ployant sous deux yeux trop charbonneux. La mode des mannequins squelettiques sur les podiums du luxe. L\u2019\u00e9loge de ce que l\u2019on a appel\u00e9 le style \u00abheroin chic\u00bb \u2013 silhouette fr\u00f4lant l\u2019anorexie, rimmel qui coule, yeux cam\u00e9s, m\u00e9lange de v\u00eatements pr\u00e9cieux et de pi\u00e8ces grunges. Une \u00e9poque o\u00f9 le rock tient encore le haut de la sc\u00e8ne, et o\u00f9 le hip-hop n\u2019a pas tout aval\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ce temps, Morgane Pouillot<\/strong> en parle magnifiquement \u2013 elle est cheffe de projet chez LeherpeurParis, cabinet de conseil en strat\u00e9gie cr\u00e9ative: \u00abC\u2019\u00e9taient les ann\u00e9es fastes d\u2019un certain rock, mais aussi les premi\u00e8res communaut\u00e9s internet comme MySpace ou Tumblr. La tendance \u00abindie sleaze\u00bb, ind\u00e9pen- dant n\u00e9glig\u00e9. Un \u00e9loge de la spontan\u00e9it\u00e9, de la drogue. Pas une r\u00e9bellion de classe comme celle des parents. Mais contre un mode de vie. C\u2019est \u00abje veux avoir de l\u2019argent mais d\u00e9border, mener une vie dor\u00e9e mais transgressive<\/em>\u00bb. Les figures qui incarnent ces aspirations: Cory Kennedy, les BB Brunes, les Libertines. Les marques: Gucci, American Apparel, Cheap Monday,!etc.!Le designer phare: Hedi Slimane chez Saint Laurent puis chez Dior.<\/em>\u00bb Pi\u00e8ce ico- nique: le jean skinny<\/em>, inconfortable et vendu par millions de millions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L’essor de la “clean girl”<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Et puis le confinement et le r\u00e8gne sans partage du v\u00eatement cool, du pantalon mou ou de la basket marshmallow. Et puis la mont\u00e9e en force d\u2019Instagram et de ses ic\u00f4nes lisses et liss\u00e9es, l\u2019av\u00e8nement de la \u00abclean girl\u00bb qui porte des Birkenstock, des v\u00eatements flottants et qui cuit son pain en battant des (faux) cils. Et puis le hip-hop dont l\u2019uniforme baggy s\u2019inscrit en r\u00e9action contre la maigreur du jean de rocker. Et puis \u2013 enfin! \u2013 la mont\u00e9e des aspirations plus inclusives et des valeurs \u00abbody positive\u00bb qui taclent l\u2019\u00e9loge de la mai- greur. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Comme le dit Cyril Jordil, buyer manager <\/em>pour les magasins Bong\u00e9nie: \u00abLe mod\u00e8le de la \u00abclean girl\u00bb a effac\u00e9 celui de la rockeuse, la mode est pass\u00e9e au pantalon large en bas ou carr\u00e9ment oversize. Et pour celles et ceux qui cherchent \u00e0 montrer leurs formes, il y a d\u00e9sormais le collant, associ\u00e9 au yoga ou \u00e0 la salle de sport, bref \u00e0 un style de vie plus sain.\u00bb Bien s\u00fbr, le jean skinny a surv\u00e9cu dans le vestiaire de la bourgeoise en escarpins ou dans celui du k\u00e9k\u00e9 qui va chez le barbier et qui porte une chemise trop serr\u00e9e \u2013 bref, il est pass\u00e9 du c\u00f4t\u00e9 populaire et silencieux de la mode. Mais il a disparu des radars des avant- gardes. Agn\u00e8s Vadi est genevoise, designer et styliste pour des personnalit\u00e9s en vue, elle a cofond\u00e9 Abri Studio, une marque qui cr\u00e9e des v\u00eatements, \u00e9clair\u00e9s, urbains, parfaitement styl\u00e9s. Dont des jeans qui cartonnent, tr\u00e8s larges, tr\u00e8s flottants. Pour rien au monde, Abri Studio ne lancerait des jeans skinny: \u00abLe jean qui moule, c\u2019est l\u2019anti-inclusivit\u00e9, l\u2019\u00e9loge de la femme souvent blanche et maigre comme on en revoit de plus en plus sur les podiums. C\u2019est un v\u00eatement inconfortable, qui ne laisse pas libre. Et puis l\u2019\u00e9lasthanne, \u00e7a vieillit mal, \u00e7a se d\u00e9tend, \u00e7a ne se patine pas, \u00e7a ne s\u2019inscrit pas dans une dur\u00e9e<\/em>.\u00bb M\u00eame Demna Gvasalia, le designer qui a marqu\u00e9 la d\u00e9cennie \u00e0 la t\u00eate de Balenciaga, lui qui n\u2019a peur d\u2019aucun revival discutable, se m\u00e9fiait, r\u00e9cemment du skinny <\/em>dans les colonnes du magazine Die Zeit<\/em>: \u00abWe don\u2019t want the whole world to look like sausages<\/em>\u00bb (\u00abOn ne veut pas que le monde entier ressemble \u00e0 des saucisses\u00bb).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
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\u00a9<\/strong> @celine<\/a>, FW25<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
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\u00a9<\/strong> Kate Moss archive<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Le Trump du vestaire<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Et pourtant, le skinny <\/em>est sur les podiums en vue \u2013 Miu Miu, pour ne parler que de la marque la plus prescriptrice. Sur les r\u00e9- seaux les plus influents. M\u00eame en vedette sur Zalando r\u00e9cemment. Comment l\u2019expliquer? Et si le skinny<\/em>, cet automne, c\u2019\u00e9tait le Donald Trump du vestiaire: un truc aim\u00e9 par les ploucs, d\u00e9test\u00e9 par un public \u00e9clair\u00e9, mais qui finit pl\u00e9biscit\u00e9 par une \u00e9lite ?Morgane Pouillot: \u00abCet engouement, notamment sur les r\u00e9seaux, raconte une forme de nostalgie, le besoin d\u2019aller chercher des ic\u00f4nes turbulentes et rock apr\u00e8s l\u2019obses- sion de la sant\u00e9, du pur et du blanc. L\u2019\u00e9loge du skinny, c\u2019est peut-\u00eatre marginal mais pas anecdotique. Porter un jean skinny sur les r\u00e9seaux, c\u2019est aller chercher dans le pass\u00e9 des ic\u00f4nes qui rassurent parce qu\u2019elles sont connues, mais qui incarnaient une forme de transgression, d\u2019insouciance. C\u2019est v\u00e9cu comme un contre-pouvoir o\u00f9 se mixent \u00e9loge de la cigarette, photos un peu cracra, go\u00fbts grin\u00e7ants, allure plus aiguis\u00e9e et apologie de l\u2019Ozempic, ce m\u00e9dicament utilis\u00e9 pour maigrir.<\/em>\u00bb<\/p>\n\n\n\n


On r\u00e9sume, on force le trait. Le jean skinny<\/em>, c\u2019est un v\u00eatement anti-IA, en somme, un truc capable d\u2019incarner une profondeur, des accidents, du refoul\u00e9, du toucher, de l\u2019\u00e2pret\u00e9, de la mauvaise conscience, de la bonne foi, du d\u00e9ni de r\u00e9alit\u00e9, du r\u00eave mal r\u00e9veill\u00e9. Un jean qu\u2019on voit partout et qui n\u2019est jamais \u00e0 sa bonne place. Un v\u00eatement qui colle \u00e0 la peau de son temps<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
\u00a9<\/strong> @diesel<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Par St\u00e9phane Bonvin<\/em><\/strong><\/strong> pour T, le magazine du Temps<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Le jean \u00abskinny\u00bb, tr\u00e8s serr\u00e9, est de retour! Oui, celui de Kate Moss, Hedi Slimane et Amy Winehouse, qui colle \u00e0 la cuisse et entrave les chevilles. Vraiment? Pourquoi? O\u00f9? […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":5800,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[172],"tags":[39,77],"class_list":["post-5799","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-revuedepresse","tag-fashion","tag-trends"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nEn revue (T, le magazine du Temps) : "Skinny is back ?" | LeherpeurParis<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Le jean \u00abskinny\u00bb, tr\u00e8s serr\u00e9, est de retour! 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