{"id":2181,"date":"2022-02-28T11:36:05","date_gmt":"2022-02-28T10:36:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/leherpeurparis.com\/?p=2181"},"modified":"2022-04-28T11:37:17","modified_gmt":"2022-04-28T09:37:17","slug":"en-revue-la-fast-fashion-se-pare-des-atours-du-luxe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/leherpeurparis.com\/en\/revuedepresse\/en-revue-la-fast-fashion-se-pare-des-atours-du-luxe\/","title":{"rendered":"En revue : La fast fashion se pare des atours du luxe"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"\"
Paolo Roversi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Pour M le Magazine du Monde,\u00a0LeherpeurParis<\/a>\u00a0a partag\u00e9 son regard avec\u00a0Sophie Abriat<\/a>, sur l’amorce de la mont\u00e9e en gamme de la fast fashion : m\u00e9c\u00e9nat artistique, collaborations plus pointues, films de mode, emprunt aux codes du luxe… que signifient ces r\u00e9centes strat\u00e9gies ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Collections haut de gamme, m\u00e9c\u00e9nat artistique, collaborations avec des cr\u00e9ateurs pointus\u2026 Les enseignes Zara, Stradivarius ou H&M empruntent la strat\u00e9gie des grandes maisons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En ce matin de d\u00e9cembre, \u00e0 deux pas de l\u2019Op\u00e9ra de Paris, au 2 de la rue Hal\u00e9vy, le magasin Zara accueille ses clients avec une nouvelle installation\u00a0: \u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e, un espace au sol blanc immacul\u00e9 et par\u00e9 de miroirs a \u00e9t\u00e9 am\u00e9nag\u00e9. En son centre, des mannequins de couture sont habill\u00e9s de luxueux manteaux\u00a0: \u00adbroderies de sequins, franges de plumes, brocart color\u00e9, jacquard de fils m\u00e9tallis\u00e9s, d\u00e9tails au point de croix\u2026 L\u2019\u00e9tiquette des pi\u00e8ces fait l\u2019\u00e9loge de l\u2019artisanat et pr\u00e9sente le nouveau concept de l\u2019enseigne espagnole baptis\u00e9 \u00ab\u00a0Zara Atelier\u00a0\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Une \u00e9quipe sp\u00e9ciale de designers a imagin\u00e9 cette premi\u00e8re collection d\u2019essentiels. Six pardessus, ponchos et capes \u00e9dit\u00e9s en s\u00e9rie limit\u00e9e, vendus entre 299\u00a0euros et 399\u00a0euros \u2013 des prix trois fois plus \u00e9lev\u00e9s que ceux pratiqu\u00e9s habituellement par l\u2019enseigne. Pour parfaire le tout, c\u2019est\u00a0le c\u00e9l\u00e8bre photographe de mode Paolo Roversi<\/a>, plus habitu\u00e9 \u00e0 travailler pour des maisons de luxe et des magazines, qui signe les visuels.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mi-d\u00e9cembre, le g\u00e9ant espagnol d\u00e9voilait aussi un film de No\u00ebl de quarante-trois minutes sign\u00e9 du r\u00e9alisateur Luca Guadagnino, collaborateur r\u00e9gulier de grands noms de la mode comme Dior ou Ferragamo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab Ces enseignes amorcent leur mont\u00e9e en gamme, cherchant \u00e0 modifier la fa\u00e7on dont on les per\u00e7oit. \u00bb Gachoucha Kretz, professeure associ\u00e9e de marketing<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

En septembre, d\u00e9j\u00e0, Zara surprenait en collaborant avec le pointu label allemand Kassl Editions. Un mois plus tard, l\u2019autre marque espagnole de fast fashion, Mango, d\u00e9voilait en grande pompe sa ligne de classiques cr\u00e9\u00e9e par la styliste et influenceuse danoise Pernille Teisbaek dans la tr\u00e8s chic galerie Louise Roe, \u00e0 Copenhague.\u00a0\u00ab\u00a0En communiquant sur les savoir-faire, en d\u00e9ve\u00adloppant des mati\u00e8res plus qualitatives et des mod\u00e8les intemporels en quantit\u00e9s limit\u00e9es, ces enseignes empruntent les codes du luxe. Elles amorcent leur mont\u00e9e en gamme, cherchant \u00e0 modifier la fa\u00e7on dont on les per\u00e7oit\u00a0\u00bb,\u00a0<\/em>souligne Gachoucha Kretz, professeure associ\u00e9e de marketing \u00e0 HEC Paris.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cette ann\u00e9e, Stradivarius (groupe Inditex) a lanc\u00e9 son projet de m\u00e9c\u00e9nat artistique \u2013 ici encore, une strat\u00e9gie bien rod\u00e9e des griffes de luxe. L\u2019id\u00e9e\u00a0? Donner de la visibilit\u00e9 \u00e0 des talents \u00e9mergents en exposant leurs \u0153uvres dans des boutiques et transformer ces derni\u00e8res en\u00a0\u00ab\u00a0galeries d\u2019art\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>\u00a0\u2013 selon les mots de la marque.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En ce moment, quatre artistes sont ainsi propuls\u00e9es sur le devant de la sc\u00e8ne : la peintre Agnieszka Kostka, la brodeuse C\u00e9cile Davidovici, l\u2019illustratrice Mar\u00eda Melero et l\u2019artiste murale Francesca Guicciardini. Quant \u00e0 H&M, l\u2019enseigne su\u00e9doise s\u2019associe d\u00e9sormais \u2013 aux antipodes des collaborations qui ont fait sa gloire avec des cr\u00e9ateurs de renomm\u00e9e mondiale comme Isabel Marant ou Karl Lagerfeld \u2013 \u00e0 des noms confidentiels tels Sabyasachi Mukherjee, le cr\u00e9ateur indien, ou Toga Archives, la marque japonaise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Faire taire les critiques ?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

R\u00e9guli\u00e8rement d\u00e9nonc\u00e9es pour leurs pratiques anti-\u00e9cologiques, accus\u00e9es de reproduire les silhouettes des d\u00e9fil\u00e9s des marques de luxe avant m\u00eame qu\u2019elles ne soient en boutique, peu disertes sur leurs m\u00e9thodes de fabrication, les enseignes de fast fashion chercheraient-elles \u00e0 faire taire les critiques\u00a0?\u00a0\u00ab\u00a0C\u2019est comme si elles voulaient se racheter une l\u00e9gitimit\u00e9 \u00e0 travers une conscience cr\u00e9ative. Avec ces initiatives, elles se positionnent comme des cr\u00e9ateurs capables de produire de l\u2019in\u00e9dit et pas seulement comme des copieurs\u00a0\u00bb,\u00a0<\/em>souligne Morgane Pouillot, planneur strat\u00e9gique chez Leherpeur Paris, agence de conseil en prospective et strat\u00e9gies cr\u00e9atives.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Selon Gachoucha Kretz,\u00a0\u00ab\u00a0pour op\u00e9rer leur transformation responsable, ces marques sont oblig\u00e9es de se poser la question de la r\u00e9duction des volumes de production. En montant en gamme, elles misent sur des \u00e9ditions limit\u00e9es et augmentent leurs prix pour maintenir leur niveau de rentabilit\u00e9. On peut cependant regretter que ce mouvement ne s\u2019accompagne pas d\u2019une transparence sur l\u2019int\u00e9gralit\u00e9 de leur cha\u00eene de valeurs.\u00a0\u00bb<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ces enseignes historiques sont \u00e9galement de plus en plus d\u00e9bord\u00e9es par ce qu\u2019on appelle la \u00ab\u00a0fast fast fashion\u00a0\u00bb, incarn\u00e9e notamment par l\u2019enseigne chinoise Shein, qui fabrique encore plus vite et \u00e0 plus bas co\u00fbt. Devant une telle concurrence, elles n\u2019ont pas d\u2019autre choix que de se r\u00e9inventer. Le client suivra-t-il\u00a0?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sophie Abriat<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Pour M le Magazine du Monde,\u00a0LeherpeurParis\u00a0a partag\u00e9 son regard avec\u00a0Sophie Abriat, sur l’amorce de la mont\u00e9e en gamme de la fast fashion : m\u00e9c\u00e9nat artistique, collaborations plus pointues, films de […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":2186,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[163,143,167,164,139,172],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2181","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-boostyourcreativity","category-fashion","category-international","category-luxe","category-creation-concept-lieu","category-revuedepresse"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nEn revue : La fast fashion se pare des atours du luxe | LeherpeurParis<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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